The Ultimate China Trip
I just spent 3 weeks having one of the best trips of my life - here is the guide I wish I had before I went.
Ride a Donkey While Searching for a Horse
China is very different to how I thought it would be! Mainly because it’s much broader: this trip had way more than I’d imagined, from epic misty mountain hikes, ancient tea fields, relaxing beaches and buzzing cities.
But the one thing it’s not is straightforward. I had to do a LOT of research and local experience to get to the below. Now, you can thank your favourite star sign that you have the guide I wish I had before I went.
To be as brief as possible, it will very much focus on activities and food rather than the background of the places. But I won’t leave you all alone; podcasts are scattered throughout, and recommended reading is at the back.
If you're super slow or just want to relax, I have put one thing in ★bold per day, which is the must-do.
Enjoy and as they say in China: travelling thousands of miles is better than reading ten years of books (but why not do both at the same time!)
Table of Contents:
Beijing (inc. The Great Wall)
Xian (inc. Terracotta Warriors and Mt Huashan)
Yangshuo
Hong Kong
Taiwan
Shanghai (inc. Hangzhou)
Things I really wish I’d known before
Reading and listening list
The Day-by-Day
Overview, travel and lodging:
After arriving early in the morning from the UK, I checked into my hotel (good area, clean and kinda cheap). Anywhere around that location (just east of the Forbidden City) is ideal.
Beijing (the northern capital), with its charming districts, ancient history, and nearby wonders of the world, is a must-visit. Despite being straight into the deep end if you have never been to China before (like me)!
Day 1: Beijing
So much room for activities:
Take a cab straight to the Summer Palace - walk to the top of the temple and get on a boat across the lake.
Wander through the quirky Qinhai Hutong (traditional residential area).
As the sun sets, walk from there to ★ Houhai Lake, Bar Street (Shichahai), with food stalls and crazy locals partying with karaoke. Fantastic vibes.
Eat Peking duck! I went to Da Dong, but Quanjude and Bianyifang are also meant to be great.
Fitting audio for the day…
Day 2: Beijing
So much room for activities:
Early start at ★ The Forbidden City (need to book 2-3 days before on trip).
Walk to the top of Jingshan Park (next door) and saw the views over the city.
Say hi to the Chairman in Tiananmen Square (book the day before on trip).
Walk around and shop (inc. Zhensgyang book bureau) in Dashilar Hutong a traditional residential area, then walk around the French Legation.
Go to Liyuan Theatre for some touristy Chinese opera; kinda jokes but also a bit gimmicky.
Go for drinks at Temple Bar and see a local punk rock girl band.
Fitting audio for the day!
Day 3: The Great Wall
The big day arrived, and despite the hype, it really didn't disappoint. There are many different ways to do it and routes to take, depending on the length, distance from the city, and the crowds on the route.
After finding out that the Jiankou to Mutianyu section was closed and policed due to repairs and safety concerns, I decided to do the epic ★ Jingshaling to Jingshaling East section (route below). It was all I hoped for as it had a bit of everything. Amazing forests, restored areas, and original stone crumbling down in others, with the best part being that it's not crowded at all… in some parts, I saw no one for hours.
I used the company WildGreatWall (but think there are loads) to organise the private 2 hr each-way private taxi from Beijing that came with the below instructions and route - it was about £110 overall with taxis and tickets. There was also the extra option for a guide, but I wouldn’t do this as it’s easy enough solo.
Here’s also a great podcast I listened to while walking on the wall for extra background.
See below for some of the more rugged sections with literally no one on them! Bring a packed lunch and some water (can also buy up there), and the bathroom situ is pretty non-existent.
After getting back to the city late, I went to Zhang Mama for some of their famous noodles and then wandered around that area getting SHNACKS before heading to bed for an early start.
Other restaurants recommended but not visited: Crescent Moon (Middle Eastern), Jubaoyuan (hotpot), Taste of Dadong (more duck).
Overview, travel and lodging:
In the morning, I took a train from Beijing West to Xi'an North at 7 a.m. (4:20 hrs). Stayed at the Han Tang Inn, which was perfect for a quick stop! Around that area (or closer to the train station) is ideal.
Xi’an is one of the oldest cities in China and was once a key pitstop along the Silk Road. Now, it is best known for being a base to see the Terracotta warriors and climb Mt Huashan. After seeing these, I wouldn’t hang around!
Day 4: Xi’an
So much room for activities:
Take a taxi (1hr) to see the ★ Terracotta Warriors (bought a ticket on the day). Make sure to go straight there, not the mausoleum (snooze). It’s very cool but ridiculously busy. If I had to choose, I would 100% pick Mt. Huashan (below) over this.
Walk around the city walls in the evenings (ticket at the door).
Muslim Quarter food market for dins - the Chinese pork burgers (rou jia mo) were the MVP.
For some essential background on the accidentally discovered warriors (no two are alike) that were built to satisfy the emperor’s quest for immortality alongside a tomb filled with mercury…
Day 5: Mt. Huashan
It was a late addition, but ★ hiking Mt. Huashan might have been my favourite day of the whole trip.
One of the five sacred mountains of China, Mt Hua has a very important place in Taoist culture. But doing any research, you’ll often find every article for this called “THE WORLD’S MOST DANGEROUS HIKE”, but this (shock) is a massive exaggeration. Whilst it is steep, it’s fine.
It's better that you are relatively able-bodied but can choose a wide range of routes and cablecars that suit (e.g., cable to the west peak round trip and walk briefly for grannies and hike up from the bottom on the soldiers’ path for the young buck).
I was in a bit of a rush to make a flight, so I took the earliest train from Xian North to Huashan North Station (30 mins), then took a taxi to the tourist service centre to buy tickets for the cable car and the mountain. It was quick for me, but apparently the queues can get crazy on holidays or weekends. Also, the cablecars can close due to weather, so get your hotel to call and check before.
It was raining a lot when I went (still fun), but it is slippery, so do wear proper shoes and bring a jacket. You can buy food and drinks up there.
Here’s the epicly mystical view from the West Peak.
Overview, travel and lodgings:
After rushing down the mountain (and grabbing my suitcase from a locker in Xian North Train Station), I caught an evening flight from Xi'an (XIY) to Guilin (KWL). Getting in late, I took a taxi organised by the Yangshuo Mountain Retreat, where I stayed for a few days before moving to the Yangshuo Tea Cozy. Both were epic, but if I had to choose one, it would have to be the Cozy. Definitely pick something around this area though.
Yangshuo is a tourist hotspot for natureheads and outdoor activities, famed for its massive limestone pillars - it was also a great escape from the busy cities.
Day 6: Yangshuo
So much room for activities:
Rent an ebike (I got mine from the hotel) and see the sights. Go to the Xiangui bridge and then onto the Ten Mile Gallery Scenic Area, followed by Longtan ancient village.
Have lunch at Luma overlooking Moon Hill (ask to sit on the roof terrace).
Go to the ★ Impression Sanjie Liu light show on the river Li, which is a must-do! With the imposing karst mountains in the background, the dancers and rowing boats give one of the most unique shows I have ever seen.
Have an evening on the next-door West Street - full of street food and it also gets pretty rowdy.
[they see me rollin’]
Day 7: Xingping Ancient Town
So much room for activities:
Take a taxi to Xingping ancient town. Wander around, do some shopping, and visit the tiny museum.
Rent another ebike and ★ set off down the 10-mile gallery route (boat is an option, but they looked pretty tacky).
Finish with a climb up Laoizhai Mountain with a sweeping view of the area.
Overview, travel and lodging:
The next morning, I took the high-speed train from Yangshuo to Hong Kong (via Guangzhou). I stayed in a relatively soulless yet clean and decently priced hotel, but I would book in advance here if doing again. Defos stay on the island, ideally in Wanchai or Central.
Hong Kong is the city that has it all: a bustling, modern yet timeless city in the middle of nature and beautiful beaches. I could live here fo sho.
Day 8: Hong Kong
So much room for activities:
Make your way to Tai Kwun and PMQ, both cultural centres in an old police station, to check out the local shops and galleries.
On to the nearby institution of Yat Lok for lunch - must try the roast Cantonese goose and barbeque pork.
Walk from there through the botanical gardens to ★ take the peak tram up to the top and walk to the viewpoint.
On to the Happy Valley Racecourse (most Wednesday nights) or Sha Tin (occasional Thursday) for some horse racing with gambling locals.
Then Kau Kee for supper to try their famous beef brisket noodles, followed by drinks on Lang Kwai Fong pardy street.
Finish off with drinks and live music at the Iron Fairies, then take the night tram home.
Day 9: Hong Kong
So much room for activities:
Take an old-fashioned cab to the seaside town of Stanley for an early breakfast of traditional egg tarts at Bakehouse.
★ Hike the epic Dragon’s Back in Shek O Country Park to Big Wave Bay (2 hours) for a swim and lunch on the beach.
Bus back to town, then take the iconic Star Ferry across the harbour to Kowloon (sit on the top deck). Visit M+ gallery if you have time for some modern art.
Say hi to Bruce Lee on the Tsim Sha Tsui promenade and admire the view.
Good audio company for the hike!
Day 10: Lamma Island
So much room for activities:
Take a ferry to Lamma Island (Mo Tat Pier) from Aberdeen harbour - have a peek in the commercial fish market next door before if you have time.
Once there, walk to ★ Shek Pai Wan Beach (30 mins) and chill out all day. Also have noodles at the dingy beach shack (bring food/drinks in case it’s closed). Also, check out Sham Wan Beach to see if it’s turtle breeding season (May-Oct).
Walk, via the lookout pavilion, back to Sok Kwu Wan fishing village to have some delicious seafood at Lamma Rainbow (black bean clams MVP) and catch the late ferry back from the pier next door.
To finish the day off, I went on Sir Cecil’s Ride night hike through the hills above the city (take a taxi to Mount Butler and follow this path). This was super unique and really worth doing if you have the time.
Views from the pitch black night hike - bring a torch!
Other recommended day trips include: ferry to Macau / Sampan to Trio Beach in Sai Kung / Lantau Island.
Other recommended restuarants include: Honolulu Cafe, Man Kee (dumplings/noodles), Ho Lee Fook (smarter chinese), Eight Treasures (brisket noodles), Ye Shanghai (fav dumplings), City hall dim sum (classic w trolleys), any resto on Star Street in Wanchai, top of pedder street dumpling place w a Michelin star, Haisan place food court, Old Bailey (terrace), Lock cha tea shop, Aberdeen yee hope, Peninsula (afternoon tea).
Other recommended nightlife options include: Sevva, any bar in Soho, Vargas / Boudoir (clubs), Peel Street, Skye bar.
Overview, travel and lodging:
I flew from Hong Kong (HKG) to Taipei (TPE), landing in the late afternoon, and checked into the lovely and reasonable Jian Shan hotel (do stay around Wanhua or Da’an districts if possible). Then I met up with a friend who lives there for a casual supper at the local-style but locally named James Kitchen.
Taipei is an epic city with a slightly more liberal pace of life than mainland China (your Western phone will work here). Due to its complex history, it has a very rich mix of Dutch, Japanese and ancient Chinese culture as well as everything you could want from cities, beaches and mountains. I absolutely loved it here, but it does have slightly less “wow-factor” than the mainland.
Day 10: Taipei
So much room for activities:
Rent a moped for the week from here (need cash deposit and driver's license). You can Uber/Metro everywhere, but this was by far the cheapest, quickest and most fun option.
Go to Songshan cultural hub (shops, museums and food in an old tobacco factory).
Drive 1hr or so out of town for a hike near Wulai. There are several hikes around Taipei, but we did the Honghe one which was about 1:30hr loop.
Then onto the epic ★ Wulai hot springs, alternate between jumping in the cold river and the steaming natural springs with the elderly locals.
Followed up by a casual dins in Wulai old town after and got soaked on my way home (buy a poncho!)
Day 11: Taipei
So much room for activities:
Early start at the ★ National Palace Museum to see all the treasures of ancient China!
On to the nearest hot spring day spa for some more soaking (there are loads, but this one was nice) - top tip: being naked is very much encouraged.
Then to Huashan 1914 Creative Park for some more mini galleries and shops.
After - the famous Ningxia Night Market for the evening repast, top picks include the ice cream sandwich, shredded chicken skewer and crispy pork.
Night hike up Elephant Mountain for viewz. It’s well lit and although a LOT of stairs, it’s only 20 mins each way.
Day 12: Maokong
So much room for activities:
Enjoy some city touristy things in the morning: Dihua street | Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall (see changing of the guard every hour) | rare book shop | Treasure Hill Artist Village.
Then off to take the gondola (get the glass-bottomed one) all the way to Maokong. This is the famous tea region set just outside Taipei in the fresh mountains. As soon as you arrive, make sure to get a tea-flavoured ice cream.
Then take ★ the Camphor Tree Trail to the stunning and uncrowded Yinhe Cave and waterfall (the route is about 35 mins). Do get back before dark (I was close!). On your way back, go via Morning House for some tea and noodles.
For supper back in town, have some of the freshest seafood and sushi at the Addiction Aquatic Development (all from live tanks!)
Day 13: Alishan County
There are loads of different choices for trips outside of Taipei (listed below), but I went for a (on-brand) walking trip with a friend to Alishan County… think rolling misty mountains, bamboo forests and tea fields.
We took the train from Taipei to Chiayi (1:15 hr) and rented a car (required). Then, after a brief stop at our hotel with epic views, we were told that a nearby typhoon may cause issues, so we had to decide what to prioritise.
This took us to ★ walking in the Alishan recreational zone, an old and famous area of natural beauty with many different trails, where we spent the whole day loving life.
Sadly, due to the oncoming Super Typhoon, we had to up sticks and leave in the morning back to Taipei, but here is what we would have got up to over the next few days:
Tea tasting in Shizhuo village.
Walk the Eryanping trail (sunrise/sunset) through the tea mists.
Firefly watching / star gazing.
Fenqiyu Old Street for traditional bento boxes, then the bamboo walk (Fenrui historic trail).
Day 14: Taipei
As I was back in Taipei early, it was basically just a day spent chilling at the hot springs while the typhoon moved through!
However, if you aren’t caught in a storm, here is a list of other trips from Taipei that looked epic:
The Wualiojian Hike.
Penghu Islands.
Drive the East Coast scenic route.
Yangminshan National Park.
Jiufen.
And here’s a last video of me as a local moped enthusiast (with sound FX)…
Overview, travel and lodging:
Day 15: Shanghai
After booking and cancelling several flights due to the typhoon, I eventually took off and landed in Shanghai in the mid-afternoon and took the Maglev (magnetic levitation train) at 268 mph to downtown Shanghai.
So much room for activities:
★ Go to M50 (contemporary art district) to have a look at some galleries.
Xibo (Chinese meets Middle Eastern) for dinner.
Finish off with an evening stroll around the French Quarter.
Day 16: Shanghai
So much room for activities:
Early start to the Yu garden and next door bazaar; get some famous crab soup dumplings for breakfast.
Then set off on the French Concession route below!
Must stop 1: ★ Fuxing Park, where locals hang out to sing karaoke (video below) and practice tai chi (picture above) - favourite place in Shanghai!
Must stop 2: past the modern shopping streets and into the old shop-lined alleys of Tianzifung (shopping area) for some lunch.
Then took a long taxi to Zhujiajiao (an ancient water town outside the city), which was very cool but a bit crowded when I went.
In the evening I was taken on the town by some local friends to Xi’an Garden for traditional Shanghainese food (lazy susan included), followed by drinks at the Regent on The Bund.
Day 17: Hangzhou
In the day, take the train to ★ Hangzhou to check out the beautiful West Lake (make sure to book a return ticket). Recommend taking the ferry over to the north side, as it is less busy, and wander around through the beautiful tree-lined walkways and grab some lunch next to the local opera.
Once back in the evening, I did the classic Shanghai Tower (bit meh) and walked the Bund (cool) before grabbing some more soup dumplings and calling it before an early flight home.
Other things to do I missed but recommend: Jing’an temple, Shanghai museum, 1933 Slaughterhouse, Pudong, Qibao, and Huangshan mountain.
Other restos I missed but recommend: Jesse (was such a big queue defos try and book), Mr and Mrs Bund, Juan Guo 328, Ye Shanghai, Jiajia soup dumplings, Yunnan road food street, and Shintori.
Things I really wish I’d known before:
You will need your phone everywhere: a paid-for VPN (two in case one breaks) and an eSIM (two in case one doesn't work). YOU NEED THESE TO ACCESS THE INTERNET: YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO MOVE, PAY, OR TRAVEL WITHOUT THE INTERNET. Also bring some USD and RMB cash.
You will need quite a few apps: Alipay (paying and travel), WeChat (paying and travel), DiDi (Chinese Uber), Trip.com (tickets and travel), Apple Maps (Google Maps does not work), Google Translate (there is very limited English). Download and set up before you go.
Most of the tourism is local: make sure it’s not a public holiday before visiting anywhere, and ideally don’t go on a Sunday.
Reading and Listening List:
Adjacent Reading: The Asia Saga (Taipan and Noble House are set in Hong Kong), The Three-Body Problem (sci-fi set during the Cultural Revolution), Wild Swans (Mao’s impact).
Podcasts mentioned above:
[if you are still here] Thank you so much for reading, I'm planning on doing plenty more of these, so follow along below!
Also, leave comments below if you have any other suggestions of places to check out in China.